While bearded irises are easy-to-grow, long- lived perennials, they need to be divided every 3 to 5 years. If not divided, the plants become overcrowded and flower production decreases. Crowded plants are also more prone to disease problems. The best time to dig, divide, and transplant irises is in July and August.
Irises grow from thick, underground stems called rhizomes. Carefully dig up the iris clumps with a spade. Cut the leaves back to 1/3 their original height. Wash the soil from the rhizomes and roots with a steady stream of water. Then cut the rhizomes apart with a sharp knife. Each division should have a fan of leaves, a healthy rhizome, and several large roots. Discard all diseased or insect damaged rhizomes.
Ideal planting sites for irises are fertile, well-drained soils and full sunshine. In poor soils, incorporate well-rotted manure, peat, or compost into the soil prior to planting.
When planting irises, dig a hole large enough to accommodate the rhizome and roots. Build a mound in the center of the hole. Place a rhizome on top of the mound and spread the roots in the surrounding trench. Then cover with soil. When planted, the rhizome should be just below the soil surface. Finally, water each plant thoroughly.
To obtain a good flower display, plant at least 3 rhizomes of one variety in a group. Space the rhizomes about 12 to 24 inches apart. Point each fan of leaves away from the other irises in the group.
The first winter for newly planted irises can be difficult. The extreme cold and alternate freezing and thawing of the soil may damage the rhizomes. To prevent damage, apply a light layer of straw in late fall. Remove the mulch in early spring. The transplanted irises will bloom sparsely the first spring. The plants should be in full bloom in the second and third years.
This article originally appeared in the June 30, 1993 issue, pp. 1993 issue, pp. 104-105.
Links to this article are strongly encouraged, and this article may be republished without further permission if published as written and if credit is given to the author, Horticulture and Home Pest News, and Iowa State University Extension and Outreach. If this article is to be used in any other manner, permission from the author is required. This article was originally published on June 30, 1993. The information contained within may not be the most current and accurate depending on when it is accessed.